French Culture Guide

French Culture in New York, with a Touch of Paris

In the Shadow of Sacre Coeur… The Musée de Montmartre

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Whenever I’m in Paris, I look for things to do that are sort of “off the beaten path.” Sure, I’ve made my pilgrimages to the beautiful Musée d’Orsay and the sprawling Louvre… but I find that my head is spinning from “masterpiece overload” after a while and I begin longing for something less imposing.

 

My favorite “small museum” discovery came because of my obsession with the beautiful artist, Suzanne Valadon. Suzanne was a model for many of Paris’ most celebrated artists of the late 19th/early 20th centuries who, eventually, became quite a noted artist herself.

 

Her studio (and residence for a time) was located at 12/14, rue Cortot in the 18th arrondissement of Paris. This is now the site of the charming Musée de Montmartre. The main collection at the museum is an homage to the Montmartre neighborhood (including the famous Lapine Agile, viewable out the back window and still in business), it’s history and it’s famous and infamous cast of characters.

 

Even though the museum is small, there is often a temporary exhibit there in addition to the fine Montmartre chronology. Once, I saw an excellent show featuring the works of Armenian artists in Paris and another time, an exhibition of the works of local elementary school children who had all drawn “Picasso” style works of themselves. Quite a stretch from the standard “macaroni” art, for sure!

 

The Musée de Montmartre is a welcome respite from the crowds at Paris’ larger museums. And if you’re lucky enough to be out in the courtyard when music is flowing out of the Lapin Agile below, you can close your eyes and turn back a century for just a moment.

 

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By Jackie Sanders